In the footsteps of Carpet saheb

In the footsteps of Carpet saheb

“The book of nature has no beginning, as it has no end. Open this book where you will, and at any period of your life, and if you have the desire to acquire knowledge you will find it of intense interest, and no matter how long or how intently you study the pages, your interest will not flag, for in nature there is no finality.”…

Close Encounters

Close Encounters

I have been chasing the big cats of India for more than a decade. Over the years – chance, experience and patience have allowed me to spend some intimate moments with perhaps the most enigmatic big cats of them all – the Tiger. The famous hunter turned conservationist Jim Corbett called the tiger a ‘large-hearted gentleman’. Gender neutrality was perhaps not in vogue then –…

Flying Beauties of Uttarakhand

Flying Beauties of Uttarakhand

The hill state of Uttarakhand is home to some of the most diverse flora and fauna in India. Birdwatchers in particular flock here to capture some of the most beautiful birds that call the state home, or visit during the seasons. We spent some time in its grasslands, foothills and valleys tracking down these birds, and boy what a wonderful experience it was. Sharing a…

Semaphores and Desert Skies

Semaphores and Desert Skies

Semaphore signals and night skies have been two favourite subjects of mine. However, given the incessant march of urbanization and the resultant light pollution, it has been incredibly hard for me to combine to two in a single image. And with the semaphores dwindling rapidly from the Indian Railways’ network, I was desperate to find a location where I could find pristine night skies and…

One Horn Nation

One Horn Nation

Tucked in the heart of Assam, lies a milestone in the annals of Indian natural history – Kaziranga National Park. This UNESCO designated World Heritage site is not only home to the greatest population of the Indian Rhinoceros, but a dazzling array of flora and fauna that few other places in the world can match. Our plan was quite simple – spend more than a…

Winged Wonders of Bharatpur

Winged Wonders of Bharatpur

Nearly 300 years ago, the ruler of the princely state of Bharatpur constructed a bund to channelise waters from Banganga and Gambhir rivers, to a nearby depression. Thus was born the wetlands of Bharatpur, christened Keoladeo Ghana after a temple in the vicinity. With the arrival of water, came the birds. And the marshes became the favourite hunting grounds for English masters and their princely…

Beauties from the Western Ghats

Beauties from the Western Ghats

The Western Ghats of India, are a nature lover’s paradise. Thousands of species of flora and fauna thrive here, some found nowhere else in the world. And among the Ghats’ crown jewels is the tiny village of Amboli. For most, it is a hill station to be visited in monsoons, for its magical mists and roaring waterfalls. But the mists hide another treasure – nature’s…

Dances in the mountains

Dances in the mountains

“Julley ji! Aaj aap bahut achhe time pe aaye. Aaj hamara bahut achcha festival hai.” With his bright smile, Tashi leads us up the narrow lanes of Demul – a tiny village, high above the Spiti Valley. It is summer in the Himalayas, and Demul is celebrating the Namkhan, its annual harvest festival. The whole village is gearing up for festivities, and ready to welcome…

In search of the Ghost Cat

In search of the Ghost Cat

Nearly twenty years ago, a teenage climber sat on a ledge overlooking a gorge in the Pir Panjal mountains. He saw a couple of Bharal grazing on the cliff face across the gorge. The sun was low, the weather crisp and a hot meal waited back at the camp. All was well with the world, when hell broke loose. The  Bharal started running helter skelter,…

Ghost Cat Diaries

Ghost Cat Diaries

Continued from…. They say well prepared is half done. And prepare we did for this trip. After all, we were going to a place where the slightest mistake could kill us. The roads would be some of the world’s most dangerous. We would be walking in knee deep snow or along precarious ledges. All of this when daytime temperatures would be below freezing, and at…