The Lost Jewel of Vidarbha

The Lost Jewel of Vidarbha

The Satpura Railway was among the world’s greatest Narrow Gauge (2’6″) railway systems. Commissioned under the aegis of the Bengal-Nagpur Railway (BNR), the system comprised more than a 1000 km of line stretching from Nagpur in the west, to Jabalpur (Jubbulpore) toward the North and Chandrapur (Chanda) in the south, covering large parts of present day Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. In the late 1990s, the…

In the footsteps of Carpet saheb

In the footsteps of Carpet saheb

“The book of nature has no beginning, as it has no end. Open this book where you will, and at any period of your life, and if you have the desire to acquire knowledge you will find it of intense interest, and no matter how long or how intently you study the pages, your interest will not flag, for in nature there is no finality.”…

Close Encounters

Close Encounters

I have been chasing the big cats of India for more than a decade. Over the years – chance, experience and patience have allowed me to spend some intimate moments with perhaps the most enigmatic big cats of them all – the Tiger. The famous hunter turned conservationist Jim Corbett called the tiger a ‘large-hearted gentleman’. Gender neutrality was perhaps not in vogue then –…

Flying Beauties of Uttarakhand

Flying Beauties of Uttarakhand

The hill state of Uttarakhand is home to some of the most diverse flora and fauna in India. Birdwatchers in particular flock here to capture some of the most beautiful birds that call the state home, or visit during the seasons. We spent some time in its grasslands, foothills and valleys tracking down these birds, and boy what a wonderful experience it was. Sharing a…

Semaphores and Desert Skies

Semaphores and Desert Skies

Semaphore signals and night skies have been two favourite subjects of mine. However, given the incessant march of urbanization and the resultant light pollution, it has been incredibly hard for me to combine to two in a single image. And with the semaphores dwindling rapidly from the Indian Railways’ network, I was desperate to find a location where I could find pristine night skies and…

The Terai Trains – Revisited

The Terai Trains – Revisited

“Abhi teen din pehle hi yahan tiger baitha tha! Pul ke uss paar. Yahan aksar aata jaata hai.” The gateman on duty near the Saryu Link Canal bridge was showing a grainy image on his mobile phone – a tigress sitting just beside the railway line, deep inside the heart of the Terai. We were back again on the meter gauge railway line that connects…

Winged Wonders of Bharatpur

Winged Wonders of Bharatpur

Nearly 300 years ago, the ruler of the princely state of Bharatpur constructed a bund to channelise waters from Banganga and Gambhir rivers, to a nearby depression. Thus was born the wetlands of Bharatpur, christened Keoladeo Ghana after a temple in the vicinity. With the arrival of water, came the birds. And the marshes became the favourite hunting grounds for English masters and their princely…

One night in Amritsar Jṉ

One night in Amritsar Jṉ

Railway yards are unwelcoming places at their very best. A smorgasbord of  of metal, noise and human sweat – they are intimidating for someone who does not belong there. There is always something new – the smell of fresh paint, a brand new coach being delivered, a new recruit. There is always something old – rusting parts, decrepit buildings and men who have spent their entire…

Beauties from the Western Ghats

Beauties from the Western Ghats

The Western Ghats of India, are a nature lover’s paradise. Thousands of species of flora and fauna thrive here, some found nowhere else in the world. And among the Ghats’ crown jewels is the tiny village of Amboli. For most, it is a hill station to be visited in monsoons, for its magical mists and roaring waterfalls. But the mists hide another treasure – nature’s…

Dances in the mountains

Dances in the mountains

“Julley ji! Aaj aap bahut achhe time pe aaye. Aaj hamara bahut achcha festival hai.” With his bright smile, Tashi leads us up the narrow lanes of Demul – a tiny village, high above the Spiti Valley. It is summer in the Himalayas, and Demul is celebrating the Namkhan, its annual harvest festival. The whole village is gearing up for festivities, and ready to welcome…