The 21st century tiger hunters

The 21st century tiger hunters

It’s 0500 and the knock on the door gets louder by the minute. Jhandu, fresh and beaming as ever is ready with the morning chai. Even before we take the chai, there is a question for him – ‘Kaunsa zone mila hai?’ (what zone have we got today?). ‘Zone 1’ he says – and with that answer even the piping hot cup suddenly feels like an…

Shaadi Ke Laddoo – Redux

Shaadi Ke Laddoo – Redux

0345 hrs and Nizamuddin Railway station resembles a zombie movie set. It is mostly dark, a few sputtering streetlights barely illuminate the car park. People are everywhere on the pavement, scattered like dead bodies. The odd person walking about, does so in a slow stagger. I am looking for a porter but there are none in sight. I am resigned to heft my heavy luggage single…

Rajdhani

Rajdhani

What a jerk! The invective directed towards the idiot who has piled a mountain of luggage in the aisle. And towards the collective force of the train’s weight acting on the coupler as it starts. The owner of the luggage appears, rushing in from the door waving goodbyes to the hordes that have come to see him off. Barging his way past me, he spends…

Two feet are a world apart

Two feet are a world apart

Note: This account was a result of a piece meant for the Mint Newspaper. A slightly edited version of it appeared on Saturday 4th April 2015. Click here to read the piece online. The narrative covers two journeys, the first from 2009 and a second one made in Jan 2015. — “That looks like a flying carpet!” my cousin Rishi had exclaimed. He had pointed…

Vistas of Spiti

Vistas of Spiti

A collection of timelapse videos shot in Spiti Valley over the course of a 2 week trip in September 2016. The videos were shot at locations in Pin Valley, Langza, Komic, Tashigang and Chandrataal. Shot using – Canon EOS 7D mkII, Nikon D5, Sony A99 and Motorola X-Play Additional Footage by Rajit Kumar and Bharath Moto

Notes from the Rann

Notes from the Rann

The dusty, bumpy road from Morbi gives way to smooth tarmac at Halvad and our GSRTC bus soon pulls in to the dusty town of Dhrangadhra. The princely state it once ruled commanded a 13 gun salute. Today it is just one of those blink and you miss places. Not for us though – we are here to explore the Little Rann of Kutch and…

The Battle of Lakhota Lake

The Battle of Lakhota Lake

Lakhota Lake, Jamnagar – March 14 1755 hrs The day is drawing to a close. The sun inching closer to the horizon. Birds are flocking back to the trees surrounding the lake. Flocks of Mallards, Teals and Moorhens are swimming gracefully in the still waters. The lake’s resident Pelicans are out feeding too – swimming in semi-circular formations to herd fish and diving in sync…

Rock and Ruin

Rock and Ruin

“Tamil, Kannada, Telugu or Malayalam, there is only one superstar – Rajinikanth!” “What about Upendra?”,  I ask. “He is only a copycat”, replies Shankar, our auto driver. Sharing the driver’s seat with him is Gopi, his best friend. “You look like faariner, medam.” Not for the first time has MB heard this in her life. BB and I share a laugh, as the narrow road…

The most treacherous road in the world

The most treacherous road in the world

The sign by the side of the road makes it plain. We are travelling on the most treacherous road in the world. This is not a sign that has been put up a local, or some wise guy tourist. Somewhere there in the picture below, lies one of the most important roads in India. And that is why the sign is important. It has been put there by…

Bombay Victoria Terminus

Bombay Victoria Terminus

The most beautiful railway station in the world Also known as Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus